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Method
PREPARATION
Provide all working materials and use the protective clothing (safety instructions). The environment should be between 10 and 25 degrees Celsius and not too humid. Avoid any exposure of the resin to sunlight or heat, as this may lead to premature curing/boiling.
Put the precision scale into operation (batteries) and cover it with a thin transparent film for protection.
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1. MIXING
Place an empty mixing cup on the precision scale and press the "Tare" button - the scale should now show zero grams.
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1. Fill 100g of RIMA Epoxy Resin into the mixing cup - the scale will now show approx. 100g.
2. Add 30g of RIMA Epoxy Hardener into the mixing cup - the scale will now show approx. 130g.
3. Stir the contents of the mixing cup with one of the spatula for about 1-2 minutes. Then wait another 1-2 minutes (polymerisation).
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You now have approx. 130g of finished, liquid epoxy resin.
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2. ADDITIVES
Depending on the intended use, add the additives to the epoxy resin in the same way: After adding an additive, stir briefly and wait 1-2 minutes so the substances can combine. Please refer to the table provided with your order to obtain the desired result.
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The amount of resin respectively additives may be changed - but always in the same ratio (e.g. 200g resin and 60g hardener). Please note that the quantity of additives must then also be adjusted accordingly.
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3. PROCESSING
Now use the finished epoxy resin mixture and apply it to the previously-cleaned surface.
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You can do this with a spatula, an epoxy-capable roller or even a dosing syringe (e.g. injection into a cavity). If necessary, incorporate glass fibre mats into your work. Complete your work in such a form as it should be given later.
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Now let the epoxy resin harden and remove any dirt. After 24 hours at the latest, the resin will have hardened.
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UNDERWATER HULL
For your underwater hull, we recommend removing the old antifouling coats; at least the loose components. If sandblasting is not available, we recommend using a coarse-grained, domed metal abrasive disc ('claw' disc) for this. However, avoid using it with a speed too high.
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Ideally, after removing and cleaning the underwater hull with a high-pressure cleaner, leave it for some time so that any moisture that escapes due to osmosis can dry completely. Depending on the condition of your underwater hull, this process can take several weeks (e.g. winter).
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It is then advisable to apply several layers of RIMA epoxy resin:
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1. Pure epoxy resin (without additives) as primer/first coat (roller)
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2. Filling with talc-resin to remove unevenness.
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3. Then sand the underwater hull smooth with ordinary sanding discs.
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4. Repairs are made with fibreglass or copper-resin (e.g. shaft suspension, fractures in the keel, etc.).
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5. Finally, the entire underwater hull is filled or painted 1-2 times with RIMA epoxy copper-resin.
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Your underwater hull now has permanent, professional underwater protection!!
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Subcategories
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Preparation
Provide all working materials and use the protective clothing (safety instructions). The environment should be between 10 and 25 degrees Celsius and not too humid. Avoid any exposure of the resin to sunlight or heat, as this may lead to premature curing/boiling.
Put the precision scale into operation (batteries) and cover it with a thin transparent film for protection. Now place an empty measuring cup on the precision scale and press the "Tare" button - the scale should now show zero grams.
-
1. Mixing
Please follow the steps below:
1. Fill 100g of RIMA Epoxy Resin into the mixing cup - the scale will now show approx. 100g.
...
2. Fill 30g of RIMA Epoxy Hardener into the mixing cup - the scale will now show approx. 130g.
...
3. Stir the contents of the mixing cup with one of the wooden spatula for about 1-2 minutes. Then wait another 1-2 minutes (polymerisation process).
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You now have approx. 130g of finished, liquid epoxy resin ('synthetic resin').
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2. Additives
Depending on the intended use, add the additives to the epoxy resin in the same way: After adding an additive, stir briefly and wait 1-2 minutes so the substances can combine with each other. Please refer to the table provided with your order to obtain the desired result.
The amount of resin respectively additives may be changed - but always in the same ratio (e.g. 200g resin and 60g hardener). Please note that the quantity of additives must then also be adjusted accordingly.
-
3. Processing
Now you may use the finished epoxy resin mixture and apply it to the (previously cleaned) work surface.
You can do this with a spatula, an epoxy-capable roller or even a dosing syringe (e.g. injection into a cavity). If necessary, incorporate glass fibre mats into your work. Complete your work in such a form as it should be given later.
...
Now let the epoxy resin harden and remove any dirt. After 24 hours at the latest, the resin will have hardened.
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Underwater hull
For your underwater hull, we recommend removing the old antifouling coats; at least the loose components. If sandblasting is not available, we recommend using a coarse-grained, domed metal abrasive disc ('claw' disc) for this. However, avoid using it with a speed too high.
Ideally, after removing and cleaning the underwater hull with a high-pressure cleaner, leave it for some time so that any moisture that escapes due to osmosis can dry completely. Depending on the condition of your underwater hull, this process can take several weeks (e.g. winter).
...
It is then advisable to apply several layers of RIMA epoxy resin:
...
1. Pure epoxy resin (without additives) as primer/first coat (roller)
2. Filling with talc resin to remove unevenness.
3. Then sand the underwater hull smooth with ordinary sanding discs.
4. Repairs are made with glass or copper epoxy resin (e.g. shaft suspension, fractures in the keel, etc.).
5. Finally, the entire underwater hull is filled or painted 1-2 times with RIMA copper epoxy resin.
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Your underwater hull has now permanent, professional underwater protection!!
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Notes
Antifouling
Depending on requirements, your underwater hull can/should be cleaned once a year manually or with a high-pressure cleaner. An antifouling coating, on the other hand, is NO LONGER NECESSARY, even in the following years. This also, from an economic point of view, means a remarkable savings potential, too.Biozidal effect
The copper bound in the epoxy resin has a natural biocidal effect on all invading organisms. This means that no toxic material is released into the water (as is usually the case with conventional antifouling paints, for example), but the copper remains permanently bound in the synthetic resin - similar to so-called antibacterial tiles. After curing, the synthetic resin itself is considered 'food safe', i.e. harmless to the environment and the user....
Consumption quantities
Regarding consumption, 1L of liquid epoxy should be planned for approx. 2 QM of multi-layer application (or boat length x 1.5 = approx. 15L of resin for a 10m long boat). Additional material should be planned for repairs. The use of other resins or epoxy resin without hardener is not advisable (does not harden)....
Chlorine
The use of chlorine to clean the underwater hull should be avoided, as copper reacts chemically with chlorine to form copper chloride. Although this is only the case superficially and does not affect the stability, it however does lead to a yellowish discoloration....
Seawater
Finally, it should be noted that the RIMA epoxy resin has been specially developed respectively tested for maritime use ('German Lloyd'). It is therefore the perfect, durable solution for your underwater ship.